About Matsu
If you’re looking to experience a side of Taiwan that feels untouched, windswept, and wrapped in legend, look no further than Matsu. This isolated chain of islands, floating quietly in the Taiwan Strait, is a world away from the skyscrapers of Taipei or the beach towns of the south. In Matsu, fog rolls over granite villages, time feels like it’s paused, and history lingers in the cliffs and tunnels carved during wartime. It’s Taiwan like you’ve never seen it—raw, rugged, and deeply soulful.
Matsu is like nowhere else in Taiwan—a mix of granite villages, glowing seas, dramatic coastlines, and living folklore. It’s the perfect place to disconnect, reflect, and discover a part of Taiwan where the past whispers through tunnels, and the sea sparkles under the stars.
Whether you’re coming for the mystical Blue Tears, the history-soaked cliffs, or the warm hospitality, Matsu invites you to slow down and stay a while. So pack your sense of wonder, and let Matsu show you magic beyond the mainland.
What to Eat in Matsu
🥢 Unique Flavors of the Islands
Matsu has a culinary identity all its own, influenced by Fujian cuisine, island ingredients, and military rations of the past.
Must-try local dishes include:
Red yeast pork (紅糟肉) – sweet and tangy pork marinated in fermented red rice
Aged rice wine dishes (老酒) – cooked with eggs, chicken, or seafood
Seaweed soup, fish balls, and oyster omelets
Kaoliang liquor and rice wine – strong and uniquely flavored, often homemade
Pro tip: Stay at a traditional homestay where the host prepares meals—you’ll get authentic flavors and family-style hospitality.
Taste the Local Flavors
Matsu has a unique cuisine influenced by its Fujian roots and island lifestyle:
Aged rice wine (老酒) – often brewed by locals
Red yeast pork – a sweet and savory specialty
Fried oysters, seaweed soup, and fish noodles
Old wine eggs – hard-boiled eggs soaked in sweet rice wine
✅ Tip: Try meals in local homestay kitchens—the best food is often homemade!
Tips for Visiting Matsu
While many travelers flock to Taiwan’s big cities or tropical south, Matsu Islands remain one of the country’s most mysterious and magical getaways. Located in the Taiwan Strait, closer to mainland China than to Taipei, Matsu is a peaceful archipelago rich in granite villages, foggy cliffs, and local legends. It’s where you’ll see both the “Blue Tears” bioluminescence and remnants of Cold War-era military fortifications—all in the same day.
Today, Matsu has transformed from a military frontline into a peaceful cultural and eco-tourism haven, without losing its strong sense of identity. Ready to discover Taiwan’s northern frontier? Here are our top tips for visiting Matsu:
Know the Islands: Nangan, Beigan, Dongyin
Matsu is made up of 36 islands, but only a few are accessible:
Nangan: The largest and most developed—home to Matsu’s government, historical sites, and key attractions.
Beigan: Beautiful beaches and stone villages. Great for laid-back exploration.
Dongyin: Rugged cliffs, military relics, and dramatic ocean views.
Juguang: More remote, ideal for off-the-beaten-path travelers.
Tip: Inter-island travel is by ferry. Schedule your days around the ferry times to avoid being stranded.
Visit for the “Blue Tears” – Matsu’s Glowing Waters
Perhaps Matsu’s most famous and surreal experience is the seasonal appearance of the “Blue Tears”—a natural bioluminescent phenomenon caused by dinoflagellates in the ocean water. From April to September, you may witness Matsu’s most famous natural wonder: Blue Tears. These glowing plankton light up the shoreline at night when the waves crash or you disturb the water, it sparkles electric blue like stardust.
Best time to see Blue Tears: April to September
Best spots: Beihai Tunnel, Qinbi Beach, and Dongyin coastlines
Best way: Join a night tour by boat or walk the shoreline in the dark
Tip: It’s one of those rare, otherworldly sights that can truly take your breath away. Best seen on warm, moonless nights with calm seas.
Dive Into Military History
Matsu played a key role during decades of tension between Taiwan and China, particularly during the 1950s and 60s. The military left behind a legacy of tunnels, bunkers, and outposts, many of which are now open to visitors. Matsu was once a military fortress and still retains traces of past wars. Visit abandoned bunkers and command posts and enjoy sea views.
Zhaishan Tunnel: A hauntingly beautiful water tunnel used to hide military boats
Beihai Tunnel: A massive underground passage carved from solid rock
Iron Fort: Built right into a seaside cliff, with cannon lookouts still intact
Tunnel 88: Once a bomb shelter, now a cool storage site for rice wine
These sites offer a glimpse into Matsu’s war-era resilience and the strategic significance of the islands.
Tip: Some tunnels require helmets and flashlights—go with a guide if you’re unsure.
Explore Qinbi Village – Matsu’s Stonehouse Masterpiece
A Landscape Shaped by Nature and Time
Unlike the lush green of central Taiwan or the tropical vibes of Kenting, Matsu’s landscape is rocky, wild, and windswept. Think jagged coastlines, secluded bays, and fog-covered hills. The weather can be moody—especially in spring, when thick fog is common—but that only adds to its mystique.
Its villages are known for their traditional granite houses, built to withstand fierce coastal winds. These homes are not only picturesque, but also a window into the area’s Fujianese roots. Walking through places like Qinbi Village on Beigan Island feels like stepping back in time.
Qinbi Village on Beigan Island is often called the “Santorini of Taiwan”, thanks to its beautiful stone architecture.
Houses built with granite and coral create postcard-perfect views.
Stay overnight in a renovated stone guesthouse for a magical experience.
Tip: Visit at sunrise or golden hour for incredible photos.
Discover the Legend of Mazu – Goddess of the Sea
Matsu is named after Mazu (also spelled Matsu), the sea goddess revered across Taiwan, southern China, and among Chinese maritime communities. According to legend, Mazu’s physical body washed up on the island, and her spirit now protects sailors and islanders alike.
Visit the Matsu Temple in Nangan, said to be one of the oldest and most sacred
Learn about Mazu’s legend at the Matsu Folk Culture Museum
Time your visit with Mazu’s birthday celebrations in March or April for traditional performances and rituals
For many locals, faith in Mazu is woven into daily life, and visiting her temples is both spiritual and cultural.
Tip: If visiting in March/April, check for Mazu’s birthday festival—an incredible cultural event with parades and rituals.
Expect Fog, Wind & Mystery
Matsu’s climate is known for dense fog—especially in spring—and strong coastal winds.
Fog gives the islands an otherworldly charm, especially around cliffs and lighthouses.
Bring a windbreaker, layers, and good walking shoes.
Tip: If your flight gets delayed due to fog, use the time to explore Nangan’s markets or scenic walks.
Get Around with a Scooter or Car
The islands are small, but public transportation is limited.
Inter-island ferries connect Nangan, Beigan, Dongyin, and Juguang.
Rent scooters or small cars to explore each island
Roads are scenic and quiet, with cliffside drives and village detours.
Public buses are available but infrequent—self-driving is recommended
Tip: You’ll need a valid driver’s license and passport. Some homestays can help arrange rentals.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Matsu ranges from:
Charming stone guesthouses in Qinbi Village
Modern B&Bs in Nangan and Beigan
Family-run homestays with home-cooked meals and local tips
Many places offer free airport transfers and guided tours. Booking in advance is essential, especially during summer or holidays.
There are no big resorts, no chain cafes, no shopping malls. Instead, you’ll find quiet villages, foggy shorelines, glowing waves, and stories whispered by stone walls. Matsu rewards the curious traveler with a sense of discovery you rarely find in more developed tourist spots.
Whether you’re watching the ocean glow at midnight, sipping rice wine with locals, or wandering through a military tunnel carved by hand, you’ll feel something rare here: a connection to the island, the past, and perhaps even yourself.
So if you’re ready to step off the map and into a place shaped by nature, legend, and time, let Matsu be your next journey.
How to Get to Matsu from Taipei
The Complete Travel Guide
Matsu, a small archipelago of islands in the Taiwan Strait, offers rugged coastlines, mysterious fog, ancient stone villages, and a fascinating military history. It’s one of Taiwan’s most off-the-beaten-path destinations, yet remains accessible from Taipei—if you know how to get there.
In this post, we’ll walk you through all the ways to travel from Taipei to Matsu, including domestic flights and ferry options, so you can plan your island getaway with confidence.
The Matsu Islands) are a group of 36 islands and islets under the administration of Taiwan (Republic of China), but located just a few kilometers off the coast of Fujian Province, China. The main inhabited islands are:
Nangan (南竿) – the administrative and transport hub
Beigan (北竿) – scenic and quieter
Dongyin (東引) – remote, wild, and great for nature lovers
Juguang (莒光) – a smaller pair of islands with traditional charm
Important note: There are no bridges connecting Matsu to Taiwan, so travel is only possible by plane or ferry.
Option 1: Domestic Flight from Taipei to Matsu
The fastest and most common way to get to Matsu from Taipei is by domestic flight.
Route: Taipei Songshan Airport (TSA) → Matsu Nangan (LZN) or Matsu Beigan (MFK)
Flight Duration: ~55 minutes
Cost: ~NT$1,700–2,400 (one-way)
Airlines: UNI Air
Flights operate daily to both Nangan Airport (LZN) and Beigan Airport (MFK). Choose your arrival island depending on where you plan to stay or explore first.
Getting Between Nangan & Beigan
If you land on one island but want to visit another, a 15-minute ferry connects Nangan and Beigan multiple times per day.
Cost: ~NT$120
Schedule: Operates 5–7 times daily (weather permitting)
Pros:
Fastest way to reach Matsu
Flights from central Taipei (Songshan Airport)
Good connections to both main islands
Cons:
Flights are often delayed or canceled due to fog, strong winds, or limited visibility
Limited baggage (10 kg checked + 7 kg carry-on)
Tip: Travel early in the day when fog is less likely, and consider booking flexible accommodation in case of flight delays.
Option 2: Ferry from Keelung to Matsu – For Adventurous Travelers
If you’re flexible with your time and want a maritime adventure, ferries run from Keelung Port to Matsu.
Route: Keelung Harbor → Matsu (usually Nangan or Dongyin)
Travel Time: 8 to 10 hours (overnight ferry)
Cost: NT$900–1,500 (depending on class and route)
Operator: Taima Star (台馬之星)
Ferry Options:
Keelung → Nangan (Main route, overnight)
Keelung → Dongyin (Less frequent, requires careful planning)
Ferries typically operate 3–4 times per week, but schedules vary seasonally and are weather-dependent.
Pros:
A unique experience
No weight restrictions like on planes
Lower cost
Cons:
Long travel time (overnight)
Can be uncomfortable in rough seas
Susceptible to cancellation due to bad weather
Tip: Book through a local travel agent or check updates on the Maritime and Port Bureau website. Bring motion sickness meds if you’re prone to seasickness.
Documents Needed
Matsu is part of Taiwanese territory, so no passport or visa is needed if you’re traveling from within Taiwan. Simply bring a valid Taiwan-issued ID or passport for foreigners.
By Ferry
Ferries: Overnight ferries from Keelung Port to Nangan run several times a week and take 8–10 hours (overnight).
Sailing Time:
Taiwan->Matsu: Buy ticket at 7：30pm, board at 9：00pm, depart from Keelung at 9：50pm, sleep on the boat. Sailing time 8-10 hours.
Nangan->Taiwan: Buy ticket at 7：30am, board boat at 8：30am, depart from Nangan at 9：30 am, arrive at Keelung 5-6.30pm.
Dongyin->Taiwan: Buy a ticket between 2pm and 5pm the previous day from the Laoye Hotel. Board the ferry at 11am on even days and 6 am on odd days. Arrive at Keelung 5pm-6.30pm
Tip: Flights are limited and often canceled due to fog. Book early and plan with flexibility. Avoid typhoon season (August–early September), when ferry and flight disruptions are more likely.
Final Travel Tips
Always have a backup plan in case flights are canceled due to fog or typhoons.
Pack for wind and weather – even in summer, Matsu can be chilly and damp.
Download offline maps, as cell service may be patchy in remote areas.
Book accommodation early, especially during summer or festival periods.
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