Discovering Matsu: Taiwan’s Best-Kept Island Secret
If you’re looking to experience a side of Taiwan that feels untouched, windswept, and wrapped in legend, look no further than Matsu. This isolated chain of islands, floating quietly in the Taiwan Strait, is a world away from the skyscrapers of Taipei or the beach towns of the south. In Matsu, fog rolls over granite villages, time feels like it’s paused, and history lingers in the cliffs and tunnels carved during wartime. It’s Taiwan like you’ve never seen it—raw, rugged, and deeply soulful.
Whether you’re a curious traveler looking for new adventures or a local seeking a quiet escape, here’s why Matsu should be on your must-visit list.
🗺️ Where Is Matsu?
Matsu (馬祖列島) is a small archipelago made up of 36 islands, only a handful of which are inhabited. These islands sit just off the coast of Fujian Province in mainland China, yet they belong to Taiwan (ROC). Because of this unique position, Matsu has long been a site of strategic military importance, especially during the Cold War era.
Today, Matsu has transformed from a military frontline into a peaceful cultural and eco-tourism haven, without losing its strong sense of identity.
🏝️ A Landscape Shaped by Nature and Time
Unlike the lush green of central Taiwan or the tropical vibes of Kenting, Matsu’s landscape is rocky, wild, and windswept. Think jagged coastlines, secluded bays, and fog-covered hills. The weather can be moody—especially in spring, when thick fog is common—but that only adds to its mystique.
Its villages are known for their traditional granite houses, built to withstand fierce coastal winds. These homes are not only picturesque, but also a window into the area’s Fujianese roots. Walking through places like Qinbi Village on Beigan Island feels like stepping back in time.
🌌 The Magic of Blue Tears
Perhaps Matsu’s most famous and surreal experience is the seasonal appearance of the “Blue Tears” (藍眼淚)—a natural bioluminescent phenomenon caused by dinoflagellates in the ocean water. At night, when the waves crash or you disturb the water, it sparkles electric blue like stardust.
Best time to see Blue Tears: April to September
Best spots: Beihai Tunnel, Qinbi Beach, and Dongyin coastlines
Best way: Join a night tour by boat or walk the shoreline in the dark
It’s one of those rare, otherworldly sights that can truly take your breath away.
🏛️ Military History Beneath the Surface
Matsu played a key role during decades of tension between Taiwan and China, particularly during the 1950s and 60s. The military left behind a legacy of tunnels, bunkers, and outposts, many of which are now open to visitors.
Zhaishan Tunnel: A hauntingly beautiful water tunnel used to hide military boats
Beihai Tunnel: A massive underground passage carved from solid rock
Iron Fort: Built right into a seaside cliff, with cannon lookouts still intact
Tunnel 88: Once a bomb shelter, now a cool storage site for rice wine
These sites offer a glimpse into Matsu’s war-era resilience and the strategic significance of the islands.
🧕 The Spirit of Mazu, Guardian of the Sea
Matsu is named after Mazu (also spelled Matsu), the sea goddess revered across Taiwan, southern China, and among Chinese maritime communities. According to legend, Mazu’s physical body washed up on the island, and her spirit now protects sailors and islanders alike.
Visit the Matsu Temple in Nangan, said to be one of the oldest and most sacred
Learn about Mazu’s legend at the Matsu Folk Culture Museum
Time your visit with Mazu’s birthday celebrations in March or April for traditional performances and rituals
For many locals, faith in Mazu is woven into daily life, and visiting her temples is both spiritual and cultural.
🥢 Unique Flavors of the Islands
Matsu has a culinary identity all its own, influenced by Fujian cuisine, island ingredients, and military rations of the past.
Must-try local dishes include:
Red yeast pork (紅糟肉) – sweet and tangy pork marinated in fermented red rice
Aged rice wine dishes (老酒) – cooked with eggs, chicken, or seafood
Seaweed soup, fish balls, and oyster omelets
Kaoliang liquor and rice wine – strong and uniquely flavored, often homemade
Pro tip: Stay at a traditional homestay where the host prepares meals—you’ll get authentic flavors and family-style hospitality.
🚤 Getting Around & Planning Your Trip
Getting to Matsu:
✈️ Flights from Taipei Songshan to Nangan or Beigan (~50 minutes)
🚢 Ferries from Keelung Port (overnight, 8–10 hours)
Getting around:
Inter-island ferries connect Nangan, Beigan, Dongyin, and Juguang
Rent scooters or small cars to explore each island
Public buses are available but infrequent—self-driving is recommended
Best time to visit:
April–September: Great for Blue Tears, warm weather, and photography
October–November: Cooler, drier, and less foggy
Winter: Cold and windy, but great for solitude
🏡 Where to Stay
Accommodation in Matsu ranges from:
Charming stone guesthouses in Qinbi Village
Modern B&Bs in Nangan and Beigan
Family-run homestays with home-cooked meals and local tips
Many places offer free airport transfers and guided tours. Booking in advance is essential, especially during summer or holidays.
Final Thoughts: Why Matsu Is Worth the Journey
Matsu isn’t for everyone—and that’s what makes it special.
There are no big resorts, no chain cafes, no shopping malls. Instead, you’ll find quiet villages, foggy shorelines, glowing waves, and stories whispered by stone walls. Matsu rewards the curious traveler with a sense of discovery you rarely find in more developed tourist spots.
Whether you’re watching the ocean glow at midnight, sipping rice wine with locals, or wandering through a military tunnel carved by hand, you’ll feel something rare here: a connection to the island, the past, and perhaps even yourself.
So if you’re ready to step off the map and into a place shaped by nature, legend, and time, let Matsu be your next journey.
Top Tips for Visiting Matsu: Taiwan’s Remote Island Escape
While many travelers flock to Taiwan’s big cities or tropical south, Matsu Islands remain one of the country’s most mysterious and magical getaways. Located in the Taiwan Strait, closer to mainland China than to Taipei, Matsu is a peaceful archipelago rich in granite villages, foggy cliffs, and local legends. It’s where you’ll see both the “Blue Tears” bioluminescence and remnants of Cold War-era military fortifications—all in the same day.
Ready to discover Taiwan’s northern frontier? Here are our top tips for visiting Matsu:
✈️ 1. How to Get to Matsu
Matsu is remote—but that’s part of the charm.
Flights: Take a domestic flight from Taipei Songshan Airport to Nangan or Beigan. Flights are about 50 minutes but can be delayed due to weather.
Ferries: Overnight ferries from Keelung Port to Nangan run several times a week and take 8–10 hours.
✅ Pro Tip: Flights are limited and often canceled due to fog. Book early and plan with flexibility.
🏝️ 2. Know the Islands: Nangan, Beigan, Dongyin & More
Matsu is made up of 36 islands, but only a few are accessible:
Nangan: The largest and most developed—home to Matsu’s government, historical sites, and key attractions.
Beigan: Beautiful beaches and stone villages. Great for laid-back exploration.
Dongyin: Rugged cliffs, military relics, and dramatic ocean views.
Juguang: More remote, ideal for off-the-beaten-path travelers.
✅ Tip: Inter-island travel is by ferry. Schedule your days around the ferry times to avoid being stranded.
🐚 3. Visit for the “Blue Tears” – Matsu’s Glowing Waters
From April to September, you may witness Matsu’s most famous natural wonder: Blue Tears (藍眼淚). These glowing plankton light up the shoreline at night.
Best seen on warm, moonless nights with calm seas.
Join a local boat tour or visit beaches like Beihai Tunnel or Qinbi Village.
✅ Pro Tip: Download a tide and moon calendar. The darker and calmer the night, the better the glow!
🏘️ 4. Explore Qinbi Village – Matsu’s Stonehouse Masterpiece
Qinbi Village on Beigan Island is often called the “Santorini of Taiwan”, thanks to its beautiful stone architecture.
Houses built with granite and coral create postcard-perfect views.
Stay overnight in a renovated stone guesthouse for a magical experience.
✅ Tip: Visit at sunrise or golden hour for incredible photos.
🛕 5. Discover the Legend of Mazu – Goddess of the Sea
Matsu gets its name from Mazu (also spelled Matsu), the sea goddess worshipped across coastal Asia.
Visit Matsu Temple in Nangan, said to house Mazu’s spirit.
Learn about the legend in the Matsu Folk Culture Museum.
✅ Tip: If visiting in March/April, check for Mazu’s birthday festival—an incredible cultural event with parades and rituals.
🧄 6. Taste the Local Flavors
Matsu has a unique cuisine influenced by its Fujian roots and island lifestyle:
Aged rice wine (老酒) – often brewed by locals
Red yeast pork – a sweet and savory specialty
Fried oysters, seaweed soup, and fish noodles
Old wine eggs – hard-boiled eggs soaked in sweet rice wine
✅ Tip: Try meals in local homestay kitchens—the best food is often homemade!
🏰 7. Dive Into Military History
Once a military stronghold, Matsu still carries echoes of past conflicts.
Walk through Iron Fort, Tunnel 88, and the Beihai Tunnels, carved into cliffs to hide boats.
See abandoned bunkers and command posts with ocean views.
✅ Tip: Some tunnels require helmets and flashlights—go with a guide if you’re unsure.
🌫️ 8. Expect Fog, Wind & Mystery
Matsu’s climate is known for dense fog—especially in spring—and strong coastal winds.
Fog gives the islands an otherworldly charm, especially around cliffs and lighthouses.
Bring a windbreaker, layers, and good walking shoes.
✅ Tip: If your flight gets delayed due to fog, use the time to explore Nangan’s markets or scenic walks.
🚗 9. Get Around with a Scooter or Car
The islands are small, but public transportation is limited.
Rent a scooter or compact car for freedom.
Roads are scenic and quiet, with cliffside drives and village detours.
✅ Tip: You’ll need a valid driver’s license and passport. Some homestays can help arrange rentals.
📅 10. Best Time to Visit Matsu
April–September: Warm, good for seeing Blue Tears and hiking (but fog is common in spring).
October–November: Cooler, clear skies, fewer crowds.
Winter: Cold, windy, and foggy—but peaceful and quiet.
✅ Tip: Avoid typhoon season (August–early September), when ferry and flight disruptions are more likely.
Final Thoughts
Matsu is like nowhere else in Taiwan—a mix of granite villages, glowing seas, dramatic coastlines, and living folklore. It’s the perfect place to disconnect, reflect, and discover a part of Taiwan where the past whispers through tunnels, and the sea sparkles under the stars.
Whether you’re coming for the mystical Blue Tears, the history-soaked cliffs, or the warm hospitality, Matsu invites you to slow down and stay a while.
So pack your sense of wonder, and let Matsu show you magic beyond the mainland.